We had some sweet moments exploring around the quiet beach this morning. Cali rubbed noses with the little dog that belongs to the fisherman who leaves her on the beach while he takes the boat out. She looks so sad and mopey until he returns then she runs around joyfully playing on the beach. Cali went sniffing around the nets getting her paws caught up. I had to rescue her, then what does she do? Goes right back to get netted up again. Little Chula came running over wanting to play but Cali wasn’t in the mood for such peppyness and moved on down the beach. We went back to our patio and had breakfast and did some writing.

As lunchtime approached, I rode into town to peruse the marketplace at the weekly tianguis, or community marketplace. It is mostly a gringo affair with vendors charging a bit more than normal prices for everything from blankets, clothing and blown glass to organic greens, Uruguayan turnovers and pizzas. I got some greens for a salad and ate a chipotle empanada while listening to a local musician entertain the crowd.

From there, it was a quick stop at the grocer for a few items then another visit to the vegetable stand to get the necessary ingredients for another batch of ceviche. It was a happening day in Lo de Marcos with everybody out cruising the town.

Back in camp, I got busy on the chopping board. It took me about a half hour to get all the ceviche components sliced, diced and squeezed into the cooking pot I was using to stir up my fish concoction. I put it in the fridge to cool just as Pierre passed by saying there were a few small waves to boogie board out front.

Time to cool off. The waves were miniscule but the day was hot and I had worked up a sweat with all of my running around. We splashed around with a few other of the winter gringos along the shallow sand bar in front of EPP. I sat for a time in the shade doing a crossword and reading my book before checking up on Cali and taking a nap.

The sun here at Paraiso hides behind the hill behind the headland before finally going down somewhere out of sight. A hike to the far end of the bay will win you a look at the sunset or alternatively, I can paddle out past the reef and watch the sunset while floating on the sea. I got the SUP and paddled out past the rocks by the surf break and sat with my feet in the water waiting for the sun to go down. A motorized hang glider buzzed past giving me a wave. The evening light shone on the shore and the misty mountains in the backdrop encasing everything in a golden glow.

The sun took its time slowly sliding seaward. It was almost as if it were setting twice, once behind a small bank of clouds and then again after emerging below them dropping for a final dip into the ocean. As the sky grew dark, I paddled in and headed to town for some plaza tacos.

One of the philanthropic groups in town was throwing some kind of fund raiser and had half of the zocalo cordoned off for their event. Gringo musicians were slapping out some folky country tunes and shouting into microphones for raffles. I skirted the area and found a seat at Maricelas, ordered up a quesadilla and sat in a roadside chair watching people cruising the boulevard. Young people on motorbikes, old gabachos in golf carts and country families on horseback circled the square seeing and being seen. The atmosphere was festive and every genre and variety of humans easily mixed in the warm jungle evening of Lo de Marcos. At Maricelas, the tortillas for each meal are individually made to order. She pounds out the little ball of dough, presses it flat and throws it on the grill to cook while she makes up whatever filling will go in it. Tasty stuff. When I finished, I walked the block to the ice cream shop and ate a paleta in a sidewalk chair before going back to camp.

5 thoughts on “Tianguis

  1. Wow, you’ve got it all right there. The first few shots looked like a flea market. Then you had the beach and beautiful ocean to cool yourself. I love the markets and little restaurants you go to. You can buy wonderful foods to make your meals or you can just order and eat and watch the world go by.
    Cali, stay away from the nets!! Have a beautiful day. Love, Meema


    1. The tianguis is basically the equivalent of a flea market or weekly street fair. Lots of colorful goods and usually some tasty foods.


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